The First thing to do when encountering Algae problems is identifying your algae.
Green Algae
Description: Long strands of green hair like algae growing on rocks and sand bed.
Causes: New tank set ups, insufficient cleaning crew, old lighting, high phosphate
Solutions: Removal by hand. Decreasing phosphates & nutrients via protein skimming. Using phosphate absorbing media. Introducing herbivores.
Herbivores: Hermit crabs, Turbo Snails, Astraea Snails, Sea Slugs (Seahares), Diadema Urchin, Tuxedo Urchin, Surgeonfish, Rabbitfish
Description: Green or red spherical or club shaped bubbles that may be attached to rocks or free floating.
Causes: Often introduced on Indo-Pacific rock, High nitrates
Solutions: Removal by hand and/or siphoning
Herbivores: Mithrax crabs, Kole Tangs, Naso Tangs
Caution: Do not break bubbles in the process of removal because spores will be released.
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Red Algae
Description: Reddish cotton candy like tuffs
Causes: High nitrate levels
Solutions: Removal by hand. Biological filtation that removes nitrate. Increasing circulation in tank.
Herbivores: Diadema Urchin, Seaslugs (Aplysia and Hermaea), Mexican Turbo Snails
Description: Fine filaments that form encrusting tissue paper like growths on rocks, sand, and corals
Causes: Elevated nutrient levels, Poor Circulation, Insufficient lighting.
Solutions: Siphon surface. Increase circulation by adding powerheads to system to prevent any dead flow spots. Use only actinic spectrum lighting for 24-48 hours to decrease growth. Elevate alkalinity to 200ppm (4meq/l or 10dkh). Decrease phosphate levels.
Chemical solution: Use Boyd's Chemi-Clean or similar product. Medications will help get rid of cyanobacteria quickly, but you should still address the reasons it occurred and follow long term solutions.
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Brown Algae
Description: Brown, yellow, or rust colored dusting on the rocks and substrate. Diatom blooms in newly established aquariums will usually subside after a few weeks.
Causes: New tank set ups. Large water changes using municipal water supply or disturbances to your system. Changes in silicate levels in the water supply. Overdosing Iodine additives.
Solutions: Increasing circulation. Performing more frequent, smaller water changes as opposed to larger ones. Using silicate removing media.
Herbivores: Snails and sand shifting gobies are effective at keeping the sand bed free of ongoing diatoms in well established tanks |
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How long has your aquarium been running?
Aquariums go through three algae phases after set up. Diatom algae lasting usually 2-3 weeks, green algae lasting up to 3 months and finally coralline algae.
Do you have hermit crabs and snails in your tank?
Having 1-2 hermit crabs/gal and 1-2 snails/gal will help in controlling unwanted algae growth. The addition of bottom feeders (i.e: sandsifters, brittle stars, etc) will help cleanup any food on the sand bed.
When was the last time you did a water change?
This should be your first reaction when problems arise that are related to water chemistry. Small frequent water changes are the most effective way of controlling excess nutrients.
Is it working properly? Is it sized properly for your aquarium?
Protein skimmers come in many styles. Choose a high quality skimmer to begin with and you will increase your success!
Are your fish consuming all the food within 1-2 minutes?
The primary cause of water chemistry problems in home aquaria is overfeeding.
Is the Kh of the aquarium water between 105-125 mg/L (ppm)?
This determines the ability to buffer Ph and decompose waste. When Kh falls below that level, waste matter does not decompose as quickly, elevating nutrients in the system. Kh levels can be controlled easily with carbonate buffers or the addition of a Kalwasser Reactor.
Do you have power heads in your tank?
The water should cycle through your filtration 8-10 times per hour. As well, circulation in & around the reef is equally important. The positioning of additional power heads will help to prevent dead spots in the tank. If current is low or nonexistent in an area, nutrients will build up and unfavourable algae will grow there first.
When was the last time you changed your light bulbs?
As light bulbs degrade, the spectrum of light emitted shifts. Poor quality light, regardless of intensity, will lead to many problems Always keep a record of when you installed new bulbs and change them accordingly.
- Fluorescent (magnestic ballast) = 4 months
- VHOs = 6-8 months
- Power Compacts = 6-9 months
- HO T5s = 10-12 months
- Metal Halides = 10-12 months
You are now the sun to your reef! Changing your bulbs at regular intervals will maintain the spectrum. Your total wattage per gallon should be calculated according to your tank size and type of corals kept.
If you can't find the answer you are looking for here make sure to ask one of our knowledgeable staff today!
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